When the sun began to set, London took on a new look and gave me some new experiences.I had lingered too long at Trafalgar Square late in the day and was making my way back toward Buckingham Palace over a half mile away.
I followed the tree-lined street of The Mall not really knowing what I was passing.I selected my first stop along the way because I responded to the invitation for “free admission” at the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) and it really wasn’t all that late.This break exposed me to Šuillakku, an exhibition by Italian artist Roberto Cuoghi.According to the information at the ICA, Cuoghi spent two years immersed in the language, rituals, and superstitions of the ancient Assyrians to create a sound installation.He created music, voices and other sounds suggesting an imaginative journey back to Mesopotamia in the seventh century BC.After my brief exposure to this exhibition, I made a quick return to the present century. I continued on my walk enjoying the comfortable sounds of taxis, cars, jets, and passing groups of tourists versus the ram’s horn, lutes, elephant bell, and other Assyrian recreations.
Next, a cluster of tourists snapping photos caught my attention.I discovered they were posing for photos with two armed guards.“What are they guarding?”I asked. The place happened to be St. James’s Palace, the Royal residence of Prince Charles. Through the gate I could see the magnificent palace illuminated by lantern-like lights. The guards carried threatening guns yet seemed positioned at their sentry more for the enjoyment of tourists who edged close for souvenir photos.Intermittently, the guards would march stiff legged with the gun slung over their shoulders then return to stand for more photos.
Eventually, I crossed to the Queen Victoria Memorial. Here I paused to ponder on my own thoughts reflected in the tribute to Victoria: Truth, Motherhood, and Justice.
From the Memorial, Buckingham Palace looked aglow. Moonlight gave the royal residence and inviting look, an enchantment reserved for fairy tales and royalty.
I call London a look and see city. I classify it this way because of the abundance of museums, historic places, and traditional pageantry.As an international destination, tourism experts rank London in the Top 10 places to visit.Prior to my 10-day trip to London and contrary to the norm, I had little interest in the city.Now, I can’t wait for the future opportunity to go back.
Here are some tips I want to share with you about how you can prepare for your first or return trip to London.
Before going to London, I recommend a refresher lesson on British history.A quick read focused on the sequence of reigning Kings and Queens, poets, writers, scientists, and musicians will help you to appreciate the information and artifacts so much more.
You will not be alone if you walk around with a guide book stuffed in a backpack or purse.I saw numerous tourists standing on sidewalks consulting pages of text.I used a combination of two resources while in London.London:TheRough Guide gave me comprehensive descriptions of each London community, the attractions, and maps. Lonely Planet’s pocket guide Britain Work, Live and Travel is a more manageable sized tour book if you want to travel light. I supplemented all of this information with a website www.visitlondon.com . The advantage of the Visit London website is that it provides you with a link to the transportation system.By entering your starting location, desired destination, preferred date and approximate time of travel, the system offers an itinitery of trains, subways, and buses that will get you where you want to go.
Trains, the Underground (subways), and buses – you will need them all to see London.The mass transportation system is the pulse of London.On the trains and subways, you’ll see businessmen reading the daily newspaper, students in uniform for private schools, businesswomen text messaging or making notes for the day’s meetings at the office.Some Londoners can balance a coffee without spilling it; some seem to wake up just in time to exit at their station stop.They don’t mind the explosive sound of an opposite bound train zooming past.They have a stride that steps confidently from platform to car over the deep gap between them.They stand close to one another butt-to-butt, shoulder-to-shoulder, especially during the morning and evening rush hours.Follow the example of the Londoners and you’ll fit right in with the rhythm of using local modes of transportation.
Although I had printed in advance several transportation itiniteries from Visit London, I still confirmed routes with persons staffing the information booths at the ticketing stations.They were able to advise me of which Railcard to purchase.For example, for me, the best deal from my hotel at the Gatwick Airport was a ticket on the Gatwick Express to Victoria Station, a train running non-stop every 15-minutes.It was the fasted way to central London and departs from the South Terminal of Gatwick Airport. When I needed to travel beyond the main attraction center of London to the Docklands, I was advised to by a multi-zone Railcard for the week.This required a passport size photo and presentation of a valid form of photo ID (driver’s license or passport).Curtained passport photo booths are readily available in the airport and transportation centers.Credit cards are accepted for the Railcard; you need £3 for the coin operated photo booth.
Take an umbrella!Although the Sunday Telegraph newspaper reported on November 9th that “north-westerlies make November twice as bright”, London has recorded only 75 hours of sunshine each November for the last decade.At the turn of the century, November offered London only 30 hours of sunshine.I enjoyed a few of those 75 hours during my stay.Sometimes, the drizzle hardly necessitated my pulling the collapsible Dollar Store umbrella from my Coach Shopper bag.Then, there were several days when the rain driven by gale force winds drenched me even with my red umbrella fully open.
My last comment is do not over plan your stay.With so much to see and do, you need to try to allow some time in your day for making impulsive decisions.I came across The Household Calvary Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Arts on separate occasions while wandering in London.Both proved to be interesting, unplanned stops.Also, do not rush through places like Westminster Abbey or the Tower of London. They deserve your time.After all, you’ve traveled a long way to see these places. Vacation is time to slow down. It’s the quality of the visit not the quantity of places.Then,perhaps you’ll be like me – looking forward to another time to return to London.
The Crown Jewels, artifacts from Britain’s goriest events in history, the Yeoman Warders commonly known as Beefeaters, and the legendary ravens make a visit to the Tower of London a full day and memorable experience.With so much to see and explore within the walls of this medieval fortress, I was glad that I had arrived at the historic Tower of London by mid-morning and had not over-scheduled my day of sight-seeing with plans to go to other venues.
On that November day, the sparse number of visitors made it possible for me to linger in the Tower’s Waterloo Block – home of the Crown Jewels.This is the main draw attracting tourists to the Tower. Normally, visitors to this astonishing collection whisk by the display of the Crown Jewels on a moving walkway in a mere 28 seconds.The day’s low attendance made it possible for me to go back for a second, and then a third look at the gems.The gems captivated my attention and delighted me with their radiance. There were thousands of gems.I read that among the Crown Jewels, the Imperial State Crown alone has mounting of 2,868 diamonds, 273 pearls, 17 sapphires, 11 emeralds, and 5 rubies.The total number of gems on display equals some 23,578 in assorted crowns, scepters, and other royal settings.Also, some of the largest cut diamonds in the world were on display.The value of each was unimaginable.
In contrast to the beautiful gems, the Tower of London is known as a grim place of for past centuries of imprisonment, torture, and death.In the courtyard, a memorial marked with a crystal pillow offered solemn tribute to those beheaded for their alleged crimes against the Crown.Shocking best describes my reaction to the display of torture instruments like “the rack” and block and ax used for beheadings.Even more shocking was the response to a visitor poll. An interactive display asked visitors to select a “yes” or “no” response to the question of whether torture in the modern world is acceptable. The counter registered a close vote favoring “yes”, a surprising outcome.
Also, ever present are the Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters) who traditionally guarded the Tower since the 17th century. Their role is quite different today.These ex-servicemen provide group tours and entertain visitors with captivating tales of pain, treachery, and torture with a hint of humor.When dismissing our group, the gentleman who led the tour offered a suggestion with a devilish smile. He said, “Now ladies, be sure when you see the Crown Jewels, you compare the carets of your diamond ring given to you by your husband with that of the size diamonds found among the Crown Jewels.”There were a few groans from the husbands in the group.
On this day the Yeoman wore bright scarlet and gold Tudor costumes.This marked the special occasion of Prince Charles’ 60th birthday.In honor of this royal birthday, the Honorable Artillery Company assembled on the Tower Wharf and fired a Royal Gun Salute.Following the pageantry of the salute, the Yeoman changed into their daily garb - dark blue Victorian uniforms.
Keeping with a tradition dating back to the time of Charles II, ravens lodge at the Tower of London.Legend says that if the ravens were ever to leave the Tower, the fortress and the kingdom would fall.The ravens are protected by royal decree and can be seen wandering the grounds or perched on window ledges. Their wings are clipped to keep them within the fortress walls.
In addition to what I described, the Tower of London includes an impressive display of arms and armor, jousting costumes and lances, remains of a royal residence, the armory, mint, and more. It offers a day packed with history and amazing stories of England’s nobility.
When I think of London, I think of the landmark Tower Bridge with its neo-Gothic towers.I knew my trip to London would be incomplete without getting up close to this world famous bridge.The weather could not have been worse for my bridge excursion, but I headed out anyway.
Pouring rain soaked my jeans from the knees down to the hems. And gale force winds threatened to lift me and my umbrella like Mary Poppins into the sky above the Thames River. Still, I walked across the bridge along the pedestrian path with lumbering red double-decker buses, speeding taxis and rumbling delivery trucks splashing as they drove past.
For relief from the pelting rain, I paid my £6 for admission to the Tower Bridge Experience.The Experience videos tell the story of the bridge construction in the 1890s, construction which at the time was considered an outstanding engineering achievement. Over 1-million rivets went into the construction, many of which were visible in the supports as I walked through the towers and upper walkways.Though I am not an engineer, I marveled at the intricate crisscross of the bridge’s steel beams. I also enjoyed seeing the mechanisms of the engine room where giant boilers remain. They once drove the hydraulic system to raise the drawbridge and give tall ships passage on the Thames River.
Even with the non-stop rain, the sights from the elevated walkway linking the two bridge towers gave panoramic views of London and the Thames from 45 meter high.I lingered there taking photos through raindrop coated windows and blue& white pattern of the structure.Now, my trip would be complete. I had experienced the Tower Bridge.
"The only thing better than telling old stories is creating new ones."
Some call it wanderlust. Others say my lifestyle is counter-culture. For two years beginning in September 2007, the journey began aboard our Prevost motor coach,bus conversion. We logged over 28,000 as I chronicled this extraordinary journey filled with experiences on this blog. Then in 2010, a new bold journey began - living in Switzerland and touring Europe.
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